Armor Creation Using Kydex

A few people have been asking about how I make the armored plates that I use on my vest(s) and bracers. This includes a few people at game that I didn't get contact info or names from. So, here's how I do it.

I use Kydex thermoplastic, as it's cheap, durable, and takes spray paint well. You can find it here: http://amzn.to/1XgNQmd


First off, I design the armored plates using eva foam, this allows me to create shapes really easy, bending it as necessary, and pinning it together. http://amzn.to/1WYQigg

Once I have the design made, I unpin the foam, and lay it out on the smooth side of the kydex. I use a silver Sharpie marker to draw the outline, and then I use an acrylic cutting blade to score lines that will allow me to snap off chunks of the kydex until I have the desired shape. You don't have to press hard, you just zip it across the plastic a few times. A metal straight edge helps to keep the cut straight.
http://amzn.to/1O5BWrO

Once you score it, you just bend the opposite sides, and the scored line will be the weakest point, where the kydex will snap clean. Alternatively, you could also use a dremel with a cutting wheel.

Once the shape is cut out, I use a 3/16ths drill bit to drill anchoring points for any Chicago Screws, and a 1/8ths drill bit for double cap rivets. I use the Chicago Screws to attach the plates to my vest or leather, as it makes them easy to remove if needed, and the rivets to attach plates to other plates.
http://amzn.to/1WYR3WT
http://amzn.to/1Pkmb0L

I then create "gouges" in the surface of the kydex (I always use the rough side up). There are two methods I've used. The first uses a wood burner/soldering iron, and you just draw it down the surface. The second uses the edge of a sanding wheel for a dremel. Both techniques produce near-identical results.
http://amzn.to/25yvqOF

I then sand the edges, using a medium grit sandpaper, rounding off all corners, and also giving the surface a single pass to remove any excess material from the drilled holes or gouges.

Next comes to shaping. I use a heat gun set to 700 degrees, and while applying to the kydex you want to use a circular passing motion. It's like a hair dryer, but it can melt your skin, and keeping it on one place too long causes the kydex to bubble or warp. While I don't bother with gloves, heat resistant gloves are probably a good idea, as is some sort of ventilation mask, to prevent any fumes.
http://amzn.to/1O5xhGv

To shape the kydex, I often use cookie tins, old paint cans, and even an empty can of beans. These allow me to get a nice consistent curve on various parts, especially handy when I'm making bracers. I clamp the part that I'm not going to be working on in place on the can using small metal spring clamps, and bend the opposite side. I often use painters tape in addition, to hold down the bent parts, or the parts that are still semi-soft, to avoid clamp indentations.
http://amzn.to/1O5DXEF

Once it's all cooled, I begin the painting process. Generally I use black spray paint as a primer, and then go over that with silver spray paint. Once it's dried, I use an overly large soft bristled brush to make a quick pass using gunmetal grey acrylic paint. I use the cheap kind from craft stores that is generally around $1 for a 2 oz bottle. The gunmetal gives it a contrast and depth.

Next I mix 2 parts copper acrylic paint with 1 part medium brown, and I paint over all the gouges, and sometimes the edges. I will often wipe off the edges with a bit of cloth. I then use a thin brush paint the deepest parts of the gouges black, to make them stand out.

Then I use a dark grey or black and drybrush the entire thing. This darkens it up to my taste, but is entirely optional.

Three protective coats of matte clear coat spray paint go over the top of this.

-I should note that you never want to hit your armor with bug spray. Something in the aerosol makes the paint sticky, and it will wipe off on anything and everything.

Once it's all painted, I then attach the plates to one another using the double capped rivets. You will need at least one hammer, and a hard surface that can fit under the other end of the rivet. I often use a hammer and a sledge for the base. A few taps is all you need.

Then I screw the plates to the leather backing, generally the bracer or vest. Chicago screws are neat because you can always unscrew them to replace the plates due to cosmetic reasons, or if the plates are somehow damaged. Considering that I stress tested the plates with a hammer and then a hatchet, I don't see that being a cause for replacement any time soon.

And there you have it, feel free to armor yourself up!